The Alice-in-Wonderland nature of British woodland

Reading Ancient by Luke Barley for the Spectator, 3 March 2026

You’re up an oak tree somewhere between Ashtead and Epsom. Wet lichens glow as you hunt for a footing on slick limbs. From the top of the canopy, the land turns to sea, and glades appear as “oceans between continents of trees.” A ghostly armada of dead oaks lies becalmed in a clearing: a bleached collection of hulks left from a fire decades ago.

Like the titular character of Dr. Seuss’s 1971 book The Lorax, Luke Barley speaks for the trees, and his not-so-secret ambition is to make armchair woodlanders of us all. Ancient is his history of British woodlands, which turn out to be a lot more ancient, and a lot less wild, than the neophyte reader might expect.

And if the history doesn’t grab you, there’s always the memoir; Luke Barley’s account of his years as a ranger are beautifully turned. What’s not to enjoy about lying face down with your cheek against rough bark, staring into a forest of oak twigs just a few centimetres tall, steeped in miniature groves of sporophytes and haunted by scurrying woodlice?

Barley was studying American history and literature at university when he got caught up with activists and loggers in California, fell in love with redwoods, and decided to pursue conservation. Back in Britain he’s learned the traditional craft of coppicing at Spring Park, a fragment of hazel coppice perched on a gravel ridge between Bromley and Croydon. He’s pruned ancient oak pollards at Ashtead Common, managed Dodgson Wood — a temperate rainforest in the Lake District — and fought ash dieback in the White Peak. Barley’s account of himself would have us believe he’s a perpetual apprentice confronting one desperately steep learning curve after another, before huddling up with fellow rangers and contractors to drink tea from a dented flask in the pouring rain. Even his chainsaw’s a charmer, the smell of oak dust pluming from its teeth “pungent and sharp, but not unpleasant to anyone who appreciates builder’s tea or an earthy red wine”. Sampled like this, the prose is a bit fulsome, I suppose; in context it’s mesmerising.

Before the arrival of humans, ancient British “wildwood” was never tangled, tall and dark; it was a kind of savannah, “crashed around, broken and browsed by… super-elephants, super-rhinoceroses and super-horses”, says Barley, channeling the prose of his hero, the ecological historian Oliver Rackham.

As a consequence, most of our native tree species, once felled, are able to spring back to life from dormant buds beneath the bark of the stump. If you want to keep a tree producing wood in perpetuity — for firewood, charcoal, fencing, furniture, plates, bowls, boxes, you-name-it — simply chop it at ground level (coppicing) or at head height (pollarding). There’s almost no ancient tree, even in pockets of supposed wildwood, that hasn’t been harvested for its wood at some time or other, and this industrial but sustainable system, says Barley, had the unintentional side-effect of replicating conditions between 65 and 10 million years ago, when British flora and fauna evolved. Such is the Alice-in-Wonderland nature of British woodland, it’s at its healthiest and most diverse when managed, but loses all charm, health and variety when left alone.

That “leaving alone” — neglect would be a better word — began with acts of enclosure, which by physically separating the population from the land, caused British “wood culture” to collapse.
Post-war “scientific forestry” replaced complex native woods with monocultures of non-native conifers like Sitka spruce precisely because they were uniform and required less skill and fine judgement to harvest than the idiosyncratic native trees. Farmers and landowners, focused on intensive food production, came to view woodland as “waste”. Coppiced woods grew dark and uniform, and ancient pollards at places like Ashtead became top-heavy and prone to collapse because the cycle of cutting them was broken in the nineteenth century.

At his bleakest, Barley conceives of contemporary rural Britain as a “binary landscape” of dark woods and open fields, managed by a society suffering from a uniquely severe disconnection from nature.

What can be done? Where most authors escape into well-meaning generalities, Barley brings real heft to a vision of Britain reawakened to wood. Working healthy savannah-like wood-pasture produces small, crooked, or irregular timber that today is often only sold as firewood. Advances in processing, though, allow strips of this smaller wood to be glued together into laminates that are incredibly strong. The Black & White Building in East London uses a frame of laminated beech that is stronger than steel, while the Sheffield Winter Garden uses curved beams of laminated larch. By turning low-quality wood into high-quality structural components, engineered timber provides a financial incentive for landowners to manage woods that might otherwise be too expensive to maintain.

Barley the memoirist, meanwhile, is by his own admission a melancholy chap, “off on my self-absorbed spiritual quest.” But he’s only teasing. Ancient is imbued with a powerful sense of community. Britain’s woods are for people — because people, whether they know it or not — are the woods’ life-blood.

82.8 per cent perfect

Visiting Amazonia at London’s Science Museum for the Telegraph, 13 October 2021

The much-garlanded Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado is at London’s Science Museum to launch a seven-plus-years-in-the-making exhibition of photographs from Amazônia — and, not coincidentally, there’s barely a fortnight to go before the 26th United Nations Climate Change Conference convenes in Glasgow.

Salgado speaks to the urgency of the moment. We must save the Amazon rainforest for many reasons, but chiefly because the world’s rainfall patterns depend on it. We should stop buying Amazonian wood; we should stop buying beef fed on Amazonian soya; we should stop investing in companies who have interests in Amazonian mining.

There are only so many ways to say these things, and only so many times a poor mortal can hear them. On the face of it, Salgado’s enormous exhibition, set to an immersive soundscape by Seventies new-age pioneer Jean-Michel Jarre, sounds more impressive than impactful. Selgado is everyone’s idea of an engaged artist — his photographs of workers at the Serra Pelada gold mine in Brazil are world-famous — but is it even in us, now, to feel more concerned about the rainforest?

Turns out that it is. Jarre’s music plays a significant part in this show, curated and designed by Sebastiao’s wife Lelia Wanick Salgado. Assembled from audio archives in Geneva, it manages to be both politely ambient and often quite frightening in its dizzying assemblage of elemental roars (touches of Jóhann Jóhannsson, there), bird calls, forest sounds and human voices. And Selgado’s epic visions of the Amazon more than earn such Stürm und Drang.

This is not an exhibition about the 17.2 per cent of the rainforest that is already lost us. It’s not about logging companies or soy farms, gold mines or cattle ranches. It’s about what’s left. Ecologically the region’s losses are catastrophic; but there’s still plenty to save and, for a photographer, plenty to see.

Here, rendered in Selgado’s exquisitely detailed, thumpingly immediate monochrome, is Anavilhanas, the world’s largest freshwater archipelago, a wetland so complex and mutable, no-one has ever been able to settle there. There are mountains, “inselbergs”, rising out of the forest like volcanic islands in some fantastical South China Sea. There are bravura performances of the developer’s art: rivers turned to tin-foil, and leaves turned to photographic grain, and rainstorms turned to atom-bomb explosions, and clouds caught at angles that reveal what they truly are: airborn rivers. As they spill over the edge of Brazil, they dump more moisture into the Atlantic than the mighty Amazon itself.

Dotted about the exhibition space are oval “forest shelters”: dwellings for intimate portraits of twelve different forest peoples. Selgado acknowledges this anthropological effort merely scratches the surface: Amazonia’s 192 distinct groups constitute the most culturally and linguistically diverse region on the planet. Capturing and communicating that diversity conveys the scale of the region even better than those cloud shots.

The Ashaninka used to trade with the Incas. When the Spanish came, their supreme god Pawa turned all the wise men into animals to keep the region’s secrets. The highland Korubo (handy with a war club) became known as mud people, lathering themselves with the stuff against mosquitoes whenever they came down off their hill. The Zo’é place nuts in the mouths of the wild pigs they have killed so the meal can join in with its own feast. The Suruwahá quite happily consume the deadly spear-tip toxin timbó, figuring its better to die young and healthy (and many do).

The more we explore, the more we find it’s the profound and sometimes disturbing differences between these peoples that matter; not their surface exoticism. In the end, faced with such extraordinary diversity, we can only look in the mirror and admit our own oddness, and with it our kinship. We, too — this is the show’s deepest lesson — are, in every possible regard, like the playful, charming, touching, sometimes terrifying subjects of Selgado’s portraits, quite impossibly strange.

Turning over new leaves

Contemplating Trees at Fondation Cartier, Paris for the Financial Times, 1 August 2019

Trees, a group show at the Fondation Cartier in Paris featuring artists, botanists and philosophers, screams personality — by which I mean eccentricity, thought and argument. Appropriately, it’s an exhibition that lives and breathes. I hated some of it and walked out of the gallery grinning from ear to ear. It absolutely does its job: it makes trees treeish again.

The French state’s funding for the arts is generous in quantity but conservative in taste. It doesn’t fund the Fondation Cartier, leaving it free to be playful — to hang so-called “outsider” and indigenous artists alongside established names; to work with artists in the long term, developing and acquiring pieces as collaborations grow. In other words, Paris’s first private foundation for contemporary art is free to behave as a private patron should and to learn on the job.

Trees is the latest in a line of exhibitions conceived by the Fondation Cartier that seek to decentre humans’ view of ourselves as overlords of creation. In 2016, The Great Animal Orchestra exhibition (which visits London in October) sought to establish common intellectual ground between species. Trees goes further, seeking a rapprochement between two kingdoms, the animals and the plants.

Trees are weirdly hard to see because they hide in plain sight. “The tree is the chair on which we sit, the table we use to write, it is our cupboards, our furniture, but also our most ordinary tools,” as Parisian philosopher Emanuele Coccia writes in the exhibition catalogue.

Tree-blindness is made worse by a western intellectual inheritance. When Aristotle asserted in his De plantis that vegetable life is insensate, he was going against Plato, Anaxagoras, Democritus and Empedocles. And he was wrong: plants detect and react to temperature, humidity, air pressure, vibration, sound, touch, trauma and chemical information that we have no short names for. They respond to these sensations as quickly as any animal. They are not less than animals, but they are radically, mind-bendingly different.

A life among trees does things to the eye. Perspective is not much help in reading a treescape, while pattern recognition is vital. Work here by Kalepi, Joseca and Ehuana Yaira, Yanomami artists from the Amazon rainforest, explores the architectonic quality of trees, expressing them as entire bodies rather than (as the western eye prefers) complex assortments of twigs and leaves. The Paraguayan artists of the Gran Chaco region included here, meanwhile, express their forest home more through typology than through aesthetics. Theirs is a forest as well-stocked and well-ordered as a supermarket. Count all the little animals and plants laid out in rows: this is not a wilderness but a tally of self-renewing plenty. The general lesson seems to be that a forest is an environment that’s easier to read for what it contains than to swallow in one gulp.

Drawings and diagrams by contemporary botanist Francis Hallé honour natural history, a European tradition in which aesthetic knowledge and scientific knowledge run parallel. Twentieth-century laboratory-based science finds its way on to Fabrice Hyber’s huge canvases — like wall-sized notebook pages annotated with multicoloured scribbles, graphs, colour wheels and wave forms. In each, Hyber reduces the trees to a single trunk, or a trunk and a branch: a world of abstractions and generalis­ations. Cesare Leonardi’s meticulous drawings reveal the architectural potential of trees — a potential mischievously misappropriated in Peruvian photo­grapher Sebastian Mejía’s pictures of trees strained through fence wire, incorporated into walls or otherwise appropriated by the unliving city.

Some works here protest against the world’s breakneck deforestation. Thijs Biersteker, in collaboration with botanist Stefano Mancuso, offers a salve, wiring two trees in the Fondation’s extensive garden to scientific visualisations to help us empathise with what trees are sensing in real time. (This is more than a rhetorical flourish: the sense data that the piece collects are being corroborated and fed into scientific research, in a work that fulfils a dual artistic and scientific function.)

The lion’s share of the show is given over to Brazilian artist Luiz Zerbini, whose muted, simple monotypes and huge, complex, colourful canvases surround a table herbarium and a tree. The paintings are an Anthropocene jungle of sorts in which urban and natural forms hide in plain sight within a fiercely perpectiveless, rectilinear grid. Give your eyes time to adjust, and you find yourself in a city/forest of the future, where nature is exploited but not exhausted, and beauty and utility coexist.

These canvases suggest that we humans, having crafted our way out of the trees and developed those crafts on an industrial scale, can perhaps learn an even neater trick and make the whole human adventure last beyond this current, rapine moment

I came out of this show happy. I wasn’t just enthused. I’d been converted.